Milan Fashion Week: Benetton’s diverse collection blends floral and fruity patterns, bridging generations.
Milan Fashion Week’s second day carried on amid a persistent rain, predominantly showcasing women’s fashion for the upcoming spring and summer seasons. Here’s a glimpse of how Milan’s designers are keeping the warmth of the season in focus:
Peter Hawkings made his runway debut as the creative director of the Tom Ford brand in Milan, marking a full-circle return to the place where he began his journey with Tom Ford at Gucci 25 years ago. Entering the world of Tom Ford, fashion enthusiasts walked on plush champagne-colored carpets that exuded luxury. Models confidently strutted in stiletto heels, sporting shorts paired with tailored jackets, flaunting their figures in form-fitting, floor-length dresses, and donning seductive velvet suits complemented by silk shirts with the iconic Tom Ford plunging neckline.
Hawkings openly acknowledged that his design philosophy draws heavily from the 25 years he spent alongside Ford, who handed over the reins last April. “The design ethos is deeply ingrained in me,” he commented backstage. The collection drew inspiration from Donyale Luna, a Detroit-born Black supermodel who served as a muse to Andy Warhol and Richard Avedon. However, Hawkings pointed out that his wife, Whitney, equally embodies the quintessential Tom Ford woman, one with strong convictions. The couple first crossed paths during their time at Gucci.
“I run everything by her. She will tell me whether she loves something, hates something, how it fits, how comfortable it is. I can’t try the clothes on, but she can. And she can give me constant feedback,” he explained. Whitney wiped away tears after the show, expressing, “I feel hugely emotional about the whole thing. It’s like going back, but it’s a huge step forward. It’s a lot going on. It’s family after all.”
Moschino temporarily passed the torch to four prominent female stylists as the brand celebrated its 40th anniversary in homage to its late founder, Franco Moschino. Fashion designer Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele crafted a versatile collection that embraced high-low fashion, suitable for any woman and any occasion. Gabriella Karefa-Johnson infused a dose of high-energy hip-hop style into her looks, featuring ruffled tiered skirts, denim, and granny squares, all with size-inclusivity in mind.
Lucia Liu channeled Moschino’s romantic vision, concluding her collection with a cake-topper dress adorned with layers of pink bows, rosettes, and boas, perfect for a Barbie-inspired moment. Katie Grand unleashed a playful side with dancewear, featuring leotards adorned with humorous graphics and cutouts, exaggerated tutus, and ironic slogans like “Loud Luxury.” Her models, all professional dancers, brought the runway to life with a lively, irreverent routine.